We found an auditorium half-filled (about eighty people) for a conservative service that we instantly recognized. It was it was very nice to walk in to an anonymous building and find one instantly able to participate -- I am always amazed by this experience of finding a synagogue in a far-off country, reading the same parashah, allowing us to pick up where we were when we left.
Of course, it is the differences that are fascinating. Having "grown up" (i.e. in my twenties) at Bnai Jeshurun, I recognized some of the elements, most notable a keyboardist and cantor, singing during musaf and even after the service was over. This I remember well from BJ -- a lot of music played on Shabbat evening and Shabbat morning. It is controversial I know (instruments and all -- especially those plugged in), but I find it uplifting and enjoyable. Especially when they end with a spirited rendition of our favorite tune to od yavo shalom aleinu -- Ruthie loved that tune at Camp Shemesh and was in a state of bewilderment that THESE people IN BUENOS AIRES knew it as well! A first understanding of the wandering of ourpeople. It was very informal -- only the old people, and anxious-to-fit-in foreigners (me) were dressed up. There was no sermon, only a "dialogue" between Rabbi Yafe and the bat mitvah. Alas, we didn't meet anyone, but plan on returning for Shabbat evening services next week.
We walked home, had lunch, and then settled into naps and card-playing, before I roused Jonah and Aviva to take a walk to the big park just down the street from us -- Parque Tres de Febrero. We found it packed with people (despite this being called "winter" it was in fact about 80 degrees!), rollerblading, jogging, hanging out, playing music, and paddle-boating around the lake. We made our way through the Rosedal, the rose garden that should be spectacular in the spring (it is very clean and neat right now -- unlike the rest of the park -- but, of course, barren) and then rented a paddle boat. We had a grand time, going under the bridges and around the little islands, avoiding the ducklings and many other boats. Before the boat ride we had fresh squeezed organe juice and afterwards the latest version of the ubiquitous dulce de leche -- this time at the center of an ice cream cone. (We have had home taste-tests of various forms of dulce de leche and alfajores (chocolate-covered cookies with -- what else" -- dulce de leche at the center)). This morning I made dulce de leche pancakes. Dulce de Leche pasta is next (!).
We strolled home, past an electronic violin concert, some drummers, a roller blade hockey game, a statue of George Washington, which stands across from the U.S. Embassy and Ambassador's resdience (on Av. John F. Kennedy) and the FDR statue. I felt like I was on the mall in Washington.
Then it was on to La Rural, the huge exposition hall directly across the street. They were have a timely show -- samples of food and crafts from all the different regions of Argentina. I think Jonah called it the "best place ever" because were able to walk down the rows of food stalls trying every region's jam and honey and dulce de leche and nuts and fruit and cheese. Not a bad evening. Of course we walked away with our share of goodies, including a jar of Manteca de Mani -- peanut butter, which we have been unable to find anywhere, even in the Jumbo. That's where we ran into a couple of Americans. Earlier we ran into one of Ruthie's kindergarten classmates -- we felt like we were part of the neighborhood.
Today has been lazy, lazy, lazy -- it poured all night, with booming thunder and lightning, so we were all glad to stay in bed. Eve and my bedroom is on the second floor of the apartment which is the top of the building. It is a mansard roof, and skylight windows built in -- which means the rain comes directly down onto the windows, which are transformed into drums. I have never heard rain so loud before.
We are now off to the Jewish district, Once, and the Museo del los Ninos....and the kosher McDonald's.
Max, your mom gave me your blog info. I love reading it and you are a great photographer. If you want to post anything to the UMass blog, let me know. I would love to refer to your experiences in Argentina. What amazing architecture and even a statue of George Washington. Take care and let us know if you need a care package of peanut butter and plastic bags. Much love,
ReplyDeleteLisa